AIR Modeller - Issue 61 (2015 08-09).pdf

MENGAIRMODELLERAUGUST/SEPTEMBER2015 AUGUST/SEPT 2015 • £6.50 UK $15.99 www.mengafvmodeller.com WE BUILD REVELL’S NEW 190 61 Focke Wulf FRESH F-8 AIR 61 cover_Layout 1 08/07/2015 14:24 Page 1

AIR 61 Aug- Sept 2015_AFV/26 Jan/Feb 06 08/07/2015 17:22 Page 222

1 Meng AIR Modeller welcomes contributions from interested parties, but cannot accept any responsibility for unsolicited material. The contents of this publication including all articles, drawings and photographs originated by AFV Modeller ltd become the publishers copyright under copyright law. Reproduction in any form requires the written consent of the publisher. Whilst every care is taken to avoid mistakes AFV Modeller ltd. cannot be liable in any way for errors or ommissions. Meng AIR Modeller is published Bimonthly by AFV Modeller ltd Old Stables East Moor Stannington Northumberland NE61 6ES Tel: 01670 823648 Fax: 01670 820274 email: david@mengafvmodeller.com Editor and Designer: David Parker Deputy Editor: Mark Neville Sales Director: Keith Smith ISSN 1747-177X We are now on Facebook, ‘Like’ us to follow what we are doing and follow our build projects. 2 Lancaster Revell’s 1:72 Lancaster modelled by Grega Krizman. 10 IRIAF Mig-29 Periklis Salessiotis builds the 1:48 Eduard kit in Iranian markings. 18 “Fresh Werke” Focke Wulf The Editor builds the new Revell 1:32 Fw-190 F-8. 30 Fouga Magister CM. 170 R The Wingman Super-kit modelled by Olivier Soulleys. 38 Unluckey Thirteen Luc Janssen crash lands Eduard’s 1:32 Bf 109 E-7. 46 Air Born New releases. 56 Super Scooter Daniel Zamarbide describes how he built the veteran 1:32 Hasegawa Skyhawk CONTENTS AIR 61 Aug- Sept 2015_AFV/26 Jan/Feb 06 09/07/2015 16:34 Page 1

Lancaster 2 Grega Krizman builds the 1:72 Revell kit AIR 61 Aug- Sept 2015_AFV/26 Jan/Feb 06 08/07/2015 16:18 Page 2

3 T he Avro Lancaster is definitely the most famous RAF heavy bomber of World War Two. Born out of the failed Manchester design, it became the most successful night bomber of WW2. A total of 7.377 Lancaster were built, sadly, almost half of them were lost in combat, but we all know the history of this great plane, so let’s move on. I’m not the only modeller who has a problem with lack of display storage for my built kits, so quarter scale Lancaster was out of the question. Then I found the 1:72 scale Revell kit at a local show for a great price, and I couldn’t resist the urge to build Lancaster anymore. The kit itself is really nice, but as with any other kits on the market, it has its flaws. The most prominent is the lack of wing dihedral and the really strange-looking radiator intakes. Other than that, the kit looked promising. A lot of aftermarket goodies are normally used for my projects, but this time I decided to use as little as possible. Quickboost browning barrels and air intakes and Brassin wheels were thrown in the box, but do yourself a favour and get some Eduard masks as well! AIR 61 Aug- Sept 2015_AFV/26 Jan/Feb 06 08/07/2015 16:18 Page 3

4 Interior The interior looks really nice and pretty well detailed already, but some lead wiring and styrene was added to make it look busier. I didn’t bother too much with detailing as not much is visible once the fuselage is glued together. The cockpit was sprayed with Gunze Tire Black and WEM RAF Interior Light Green; dry brushed and weathered using raw umber oil wash and pastels. To complete it some knobs and switches were picked out with Vallejo colours and seatbelts made from masking tape were added. With the interior completed, the fuselage halves were glued together. Seams were filled with mix of superglue and baking powder and sanded smooth. Superglue sets hard and doesn’t shrink, and the added baking powder makes sanding easier so that you will never see that fuselage seam again. Operation wings As mentioned already, one of the biggest flaws of this kit is nonexistent wing dihedral. Fortunately this can be corrected easily. All You need is a saw, some 0.5 mm styrene sheet, filler and of course, a good set of plans. After some careful AIR 61 Aug- Sept 2015_AFV/26 Jan/Feb 06 08/07/2015 16:18 Page 4

cutting and sanding, the task was completed. Encouraged with the success of that fix, I decided to make flaps as well from thin 0.2mm styrene sheet and 0.8mm rod. It took me a couple of evenings to complete them, but they look better than PE parts to me and they add some interesting detail to the completed model. Wheel bays also received some detailing, Oil tanks, wiring and some hydraulic lines were scratch built. The other problem that has to be fixed is really odd looking engine radiator intakes. They are much too square-shaped, and since there is no aftermarket available to fix this, the only way was to make a master and cast them in resin. A piece of fine mesh from Aber was also added to the grilles to make them more realistic. Some panel lines on the wings, which were incorrect, were filled with Mr. Surfacer 500 and sanded smooth. 5 AIR 61 Aug- Sept 2015_AFV/26 Jan/Feb 06 08/07/2015 16:18 Page 5

6 Turrets and transparencies Kit clear parts are really nice and transparent, but they were dipped in Future anyway and left to dry overnight. Masking with Eduard masks was piece of cake, and I can’t really think about the pain it would cause me if I had to do this the old fashioned way. When test fitting turret assemblies I was disappointed with lack of detail, as the turrets are made out of 2 parts only. I’ve tried to replicate some internal details with styrene and lead wires to make them look busier. Quickboost barrels were painted black, weathered with MIG metallic pigment and left to be attached at the end of the build. Engraving and riveting Don’t really know what got into me, but before mating the wings to the fuselage, the decision had been made to rivet and rescribe this beast. Before riveting, I always apply a coat of Mr. Surfacer 1000 over the plastic. It makes riveting somehow easier, because the plastic is a bit softer and it is much easier to see the rivet lines (and mistakes as well). With trusty RB Riveter, roll of 3M vinyl masking tape and plenty of patience, a good week later, the rivets were done. Engraving was done with a CMK saw. The surface was then worked over with micromesh polishing cloths in order to reduce the ridges of the rivets before another coat of surfacer was sprayed. AIR 61 Aug- Sept 2015_AFV/26 Jan/Feb 06 08/07/2015 16:18 Page 6

7 Painting With all the major components corrected and primed, it was time for my favourite part of model making. Gunze paints were used thoroughly, thinned with Mr. Color Levelling thinner. For the upper surfaces, H73 Dark Green and H72 Dark earth were used. First, I airbrushed each one straight from the jar, but the second stage was mixing really diluted base colours with a light shade of grey and airbrushed through 0.15 mm nozzle really lightly over each center of the rivet lines to create faded effect (and I hoped some illusion of stressed metal as well). As for the lower camouflage, night black was suggested, but I opted for Gunze H66 Tire black as a base colour. This time two lighter shades were mixed (use light grey, not white) used again in the same manner as on the upper camouflage. AIR 61 Aug- Sept 2015_AFV/26 Jan/Feb 06 08/07/2015 16:18 Page 7

Weathering Weathering began with filters. Filters break the uniformity of paint, add depth and soften the transition between camouflage colours. I mixed my own filters (dark green and brown) using enamel paint and thinner (1:10 ratio – anything more and you will end up with wash). After the filters were dry, Washes followed. I tried AMMO weathering set (7416) for the first time, and I was blown away with how easy and effective those washes are. Especially stone grey wash for black did a great job on the black undersurfaces. The key to successful effect is to dampen the area with turpentine (mild one) before applying the wash and then about 10 minutes later, remove the excess with soft brush moistened with clean turpentine. Exhaust streaks were done using really thinned black brown, buff and light grey. Finally walkways were stained with black grey oil paints applied with scuffed sponge. Then everything was sealed with a coat of Mr. Color Semi gloss clear coat. Decals and markings Gunze paints dry with a really nice satin finish so there is no need to gloss coat a model prior to decaling. Having a really soft spot for ladies on the planes, the choice of markings was really difficult, as many Lancaster bombers were decorated with some beautiful nose art. In the end, I decided to dress up my Lanc with great looking 424 (Tiger) Squadron 'Victorious Virgin' markings, printed by Kits World decals. Decals are super thin, perfectly printed and they conformed to the surface with a little help of Microset without any problems. Unfortunately Kits World decals don’t come with roundels or stencils, so I used some from a Techmod set, and I had to paint the upper wing roundels (I guessed the correct paint tone mixtures). Decaling done, the model received a couple of thin coats of Mr. Color 181 semi gloss clear coat. And finally, wings were glued to the fuselage. 8 AIR 61 Aug- Sept 2015_AFV/26 Jan/Feb 06 08/07/2015 16:18 Page 8

9 Final assembly and base All that was left to do was the assembly of the small parts; gear legs, gear bay covers, propellers, antennas and turrets, which were all painted separately. At the last moment I decided to load the bomb bay, and that’s where Airfix Bomber Re- supply Set came in handy. SBC containers and MC Bombs were painted, weathered and placed into the bomb bay. Cookie bomb and trolley was also built to be placed on the base, which was a straightforward job, a piece of MDF board painted black, on top of which the superbly printed airfield base from NOY miniatures was glued on. Honestly, I thought that this would be an easy build, and as many times before, I was wrong. But I enjoyed every moment building this iconic plane. It builds great out of the box, but if you decide to go that extra mile, it will build into a gem. AIR 61 Aug- Sept 2015_AFV/26 Jan/Feb 06 08/07/2015 16:18 Page 9

10 The Islamic Republic of Iran Air Force (IRIAF) came into existence in the early 1980’s when the previous Imperial Iranian Air Force was renamed. The Mig-29 or Fulcrum as it is called in the West entered service with the Iranian air force in the late 80s after the end of the Iran–Iraq War in an attempt to partially rebuild the IRIAF through limited purchases of ex-Soviet Union aircraft. These aircrafts flew alongside American F-4s and F-14s as it was not the intension to replace them during the rebuild. The MiG-29 developed during the 1970s by the Mikoyan design bureau is a fourth-generation jet fighter aircraft designed to counter new American fighters such as the F-15s and F-16s. It entered service with the Soviet Air Force in 1983-84. With the collapse of the Soviet Union and the Warsaw Pact nations, many MiG-29s became the frontline fighter of the new Russian States. IRIAF Mig-29 Periklis Salessiotis builds the 1:48 Eduard kit AIR 61 Aug- Sept 2015_AFV/26 Jan/Feb 06 08/07/2015 15:52 Page 10

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12 The plan was to do a straight out of the box built focusing more on the external appearance of the plane rather than adding much detail. The Mig-29 has been released a number of times by Academy and up until the introduction of the new Great Wall Hobby MiG-29 it was the best kit in 1:48 scale. Saying that, the kit has a number of issues that many hard core Mig-29 lovers can point out but the only alternative was Monogram's 1:48 MiG-29 which had even more issues! Now Eduard have come along and taken the Academy MiG-29A and added their unique twist providing a more interesting new option. The kit is moulded in light grey styrene and presented on six parts trees plus a single tree of clear parts for the canopy and windscreen. Detailing is finely scribed and there is no sign of flash or other molding problems in this release. The kit comes with a number of resin parts for the cockpit and seat and two frets of photoetch with one coloured for the cockpit details and one for external and canopy details. Having seen a number of builds on the internet I was aware of all the problems with the (ex-Academy) kit comes with and decided to deviate from the instructions sequence. One extra item I added was the superb Quick Boost replacement nose, and its on with the build. As always construction began with the cockpit area and Eduard have provided a replacement cockpit tub in resin with PE detail parts. Amazingly the resin parts are a straight drop in fit and they do not require any sanding at all. A new set of rudder pedals is built up from resin and PE, and a replacement instrument panel laminated from the pre-painted PE parts is provided. Using a pair of tweezers the numerous folds of the instrument panel and radar cover were achieved. White glue was used for all the PE parts as it allows you more time to adjust and move around the pieces. The electronics turtle deck comes in resin and replaces the kit part that lacks detail. Using a small modelling saw the kit part was removed and plastic card was glued to cover the whole and to provide extra gluing surface. Not being familiar with Russian fighter cockpit colours the paint codes provided by Eduard were used which after the usual washes and light dry brushing was close enough to the colours of the pre-painted photoetch. All cockpit area parts were painted and weathered separately and glued together afterwards as it makes the painting session easier. The ejection seat comes in resin with coloured photoetch belts. It was painted black and received a wash of light grey oil in order to enhance all the detail. Once again white glue was used to glue all the belts, which receive a wash of black and brown oil in order to tone done the bright colours. A final coat of matt varnish was applied on all cockpit pieces. The cockpit tub was secured in the fuselage with the use of super glue and pieces of square plastic sections for extra support and the ejection seat was installed in the later stages of the build. There was no major reconstruction for the landing gear and the wheels. The kit allows the modeller to add as much detail as wanted but as this was intended to be as supplied, no further detail was added to them. All parts were cleared of seem lines with the use of the knife by scraping them out and mounted on a piece of wood ready to be painted. All the gear parts received two coats of Gunze H308 followed by two layers of varnish and after drying were washed with thinned Black and Brown oil paint. The tyres were painted Tamiya NATO Black followed by light dry brush using light grey and the hubs Green. The intakes were glued in place with only minimum requirement for filler at the aft end of the intakes. In order to minimise the gap between the intakes and the fuselage thin spacer strips of plastic were glued along the top of the intakes. Original thoughts Office Landing Gear & intake AIR 61 Aug- Sept 2015_AFV/26 Jan/Feb 06 08/07/2015 15:52 Page 12

This is the part where I deviated from the instructions. Instead of following the instructions and gluing the top and bottom half of the forward fuselage together and then with the aft half, the two top fuselage parts were glued together first. This way a perfect fit was achieved on the top which is the first area anyone will see. The key for a successful joint is to dry fit as many times as possible. Additionally any gaps (which were minor) were restricted to the underside areas and easily covered with plastic strips and super glue. All lost detail was re-scribed using Tamiya scribers and templates. At the same time a number of soft panel lines were enhanced with the scriber. To correct the kit nose the excellent Quick Boost replacement was used. It only required a minimum amount of sanding to align with the kit fuselage. The plane was loaded with all the air-to-air missiles and fuel tank that come with the kit. The fuel tank was detailed with the addition of the APU at the bottom made out of thin metal sheet and a couple of wires that run along it. Some missing access panels were also scribed the same time. All the missiles were painted white and received a couple of coats of gloss coat in preparation for the stencil decals. Eduard’s decals and stencils are superb and the minimum amount of decal fluids was used to make them conform to the surfaces. Fuselage Wing loads 13 AIR 61 Aug- Sept 2015_AFV/26 Jan/Feb 06 13/07/2015 09:37 Page 13

The plan was to present heavily worn and used exhausts. Before painting began small amount detail was added on the outer sides of the exhaust petals in the form of thin plastic strips. The first painting step was to apply a coat of gloss black on both exhausts followed by a coat of steel from the Gunze Mr Metal Color range for the petals and aluminium for the forward rings. After the exhausts were dry half of the petals were masked and clear blue was applied in light coats. The masking was then reversed and the remaining petals were dusted with light coats of clear yellow. Excessive chipping with Mithril Silver from the Games Workshop range was applied with a fine brush. Finally after a couple of days the exhaust received an oil paint wash of brown and black to tone down the chipping effect and bring all the colours together. 14 Exhausts AIR 61 Aug- Sept 2015_AFV/26 Jan/Feb 06 08/07/2015 15:52 Page 14

After all the major assemblies are glued together the aircraft was ready for painting, but not before a dash of filler and a light sanding. The model received two light coats of Tamiya XF-19 and any mistakes were corrected at this stage. The motto is: “The more dry fit at the early stages the less filler and sanding at the end”. The plane was pre-shaded with Tamiya black in order to give a bit of depth to the panel lines. For the Iranian camouflage, which is a simple blue-grey and tan colour scheme the following Gunze colors were used: H-53 Blue Grey H-27 Tan The first colour to be applied was the Blue Grey which was applied in two thin coats (70-30 thinners-paint ratio) so as not to lose the pre-shading effect. After the paint was dry white was added into the base colours and a 90-10 (thinners-paint) ratio mixture was applied focusing in the centre of the panels. Finally the Tan was applied the same way as the grey, free hand and followed by post shading with a lighter tone again. 15 Painting the Iranian camouflage! AIR 61 Aug- Sept 2015_AFV/26 Jan/Feb 06 08/07/2015 15:52 Page 15

IRIAF Mig-29 16 AIR 61 Aug- Sept 2015_AFV/26 Jan/Feb 06 08/07/2015 15:52 Page 16

The following day two coats of Johnson’s Klear were airbrushed over the model in preparation for decals and weathering. The IRIAF markings come with the Eduard kit and with decaling complete another coat of Klear was applied to protect the existing surface from the impending washes. The model received a thinned wash of Black and Brown oil mixed together, and finally, two coats of Satin varnish. A highly recommended kit which with the addition of a correct nose and a bit of TLC can become a jewel in everybody’s cabinet. 17 AIR 61 Aug- Sept 2015_AFV/26 Jan/Feb 06 08/07/2015 15:52 Page 17

18 Focke Wulf 1:32 “f r e s h w e r k e” Revell’s new Fw190 F-8 modelled by David Parker I am by nature not a very adventurous modeller and I prefer to stick with my favourite tried and tested materials rather than experimenting with new products. The release of Revell’s brand new Fw190 however seemed like the perfect opportunity for me not only to test drive the kit but also to add some new products into the project to see how they performed, making for something of a ‘fresh’ approach or ‘fresh werke’ if you will! I had for a long time wanted to try the HGW Wet Transfer rivet system and the smooth Revell Focke looked like a good candidate. I selected the HGW set 321017 which is designed for the Hasegawa Fw 190A/F-8 and which comes with a set of HGW’s excellent seat belts and a set of their revolutionary Wet Transfer generic Fw 190 markings which dispense with any decal film. Having picked an unusual bare metal scheme I decided to use the new AK Interactive Xtreme Metal Aluminium paint and teamed this with Mr. Paint acrylic AIR 61 Aug- Sept 2015_AFV/26 Jan/Feb 06 08/07/2015 15:49 Page 18

19 Luftwaffe colours. These are another new paint brand from Slovakia that I was keen to try. I was a little apprehensive at trying out so many fresh products ‘publicly’ but this only served to add some excitement to a fairly straight forward build. Revell’s F-8 This is a completely new tooling release and my in the box review was very favourable with its excellent surface detail, well detailed cockpit and optional canopies and underwing stores. All the control surfaces are separate but they have pegs that lock into place so some adjustment or bending of the pegs will be needed to get any movement in them. The exception is the flaps which have a choice of raised or lowered versions. AIR 61 Aug- Sept 2015_AFV/26 Jan/Feb 06 08/07/2015 15:49 Page 19

Kicking off with the cockpit Construction begins with the cockpit which really is very good and although I could have reworked the moulded on throttle lever and thinned down the lip of the bucket seat in the end I just went with what was provided. I replaced the kit instrument dial decals with some more detailed MDC versions but with the instrument panel tucked so far back in the coving the detail is hardly visible. I assembled the HGW seat belts which are pre-coloured and laser cut fabric straps with photoetched buckles. They look great as they come but I dulled the rather reflective photoetched parts with Mr Metalcolor Chrome Silver and applied some oil paint washes to the fabric straps to give a more worn appearance. I had to check my references to see exactly where the belt straps were tethered and they were glued in place. Time to install the cockpit and I hit a few problems here. The kit instructions have the cockpit coving glued into place and the cockpit tub is then to be fitted up from below into the assembled fuselage. Before doing this I test fitted the parts and found that I had a substantial gap between the coving and the fuselage. I could not determine what was causing the problem but by opening out the coving as much as I could and gluing the fuselage and cockpit working from the tail towards the nose I was able to get a reasonable if not perfect fit. The well detailed wheel bays fit snugly and the complete lower wing is easily installed. The kit has been designed to allow the engine to be exposed but my intention was to have all the cowlings closed. The engine mount and nose MG mounts still have to be installed even if everything is closed up. 20 AIR 61 Aug- Sept 2015_AFV/26 Jan/Feb 06 08/07/2015 15:49 Page 20

The BMW radial engine is extremely well detailed just from the box and unless you plan to open the cowlings it demands nothing more. The exhaust pipes are also well designed with recessed outlets and I found them pleasingly easy to install and align. Given that the propeller fan blades hide most of the engine I simply gave it an overall coat of Alclad Semi Matt Aluminium. Later it was given a dark oil wash to pick out the details. The twin MG 131 barrels need some cleaning up and the muzzles were drilled out before they were installed. I had considered some aftermarket replacements but with just their tips showing the kit parts were more than adequate. The gun cover was then glued in place, followed by the windscreen to complete the main construction stage. On now to applying the HGW rivets. Cowling construction There are 9 pieces that make up the cowlings and getting them to align correctly does as I feared take some effort. My attempt to do so following the kits assembly sequences were unsuccessful so here is the approach that I used. 1 glue the pair of bulged side sections to the fuselage, checking the width of the open ends by offering up the cowling ring to them. These parts have only a small contact area with the rest of the fuselage so careful alignment is critical. 2 Assemble the three upper cowling pieces (parts 40, 42 & 43) using the cowling ring again to check that the radius of them matches that of the cowling ring. When dry loosely glue the engine on its mounts and fit the upper cowling, checking that the exhausts are aligned with their outlets and that the upper cowlings blend with the rest of the fuselage. Some play in the location of the engine is helpful in this. 3 Glue together the two lower cowlings and check them against the cowling ring. Now fit the cowling ring. 4 Test fit the lower cowlings, some very slight trimming / clean up of the rear edges was needed to get a good push fit which was then sealed with Mr Cement S. 5 Test fit the upper gun cover. I found that I needed to add a plastic brace across the fuselage to spread the side walls for a better alignment with the cover 1 2 3 4 5 21 AIR 61 Aug- Sept 2015_AFV/26 Jan/Feb 06 08/07/2015 15:49 Page 21

22 In preparation for the HGW rivets the model was primed with an airbrushed coat of Mr Finishing Surfacer 1500. This was then polished with sanding sponges and a soft cloth to have a smooth surface for the natural metal finish. I used a cotton bud as a squeegee to push any liquid out from under the clear film and the area was then left for two hours to dry. The Clear film adheres to the model like a decal when dry After two hours the clear film is peeled away leaving the tiny silver rivets in place on the wing. Any glue mark residue can be cleaned away with water leaving a perfect finish. Considering that the HGW set was not designed for the Revell kit everything fitted remarkably well. There were some small overlaps, the worst being around the underwing access panels above. I used a scalpel to carefully remove any stray rivets. The HGW set helpfully supplies plenty of spare lines of rivets and duplicates for the rivets for the circumference of the small oval inspection covers for example, making it easy to repair any mistakes. HGW provide a guide diagram showing the location of all the numbered decal segments. This is such a fantastic system - easy to use and gives without doubt the best scale rivet appearance. The HGW rivet system divides the rivets into manageable panels which are treated like a conventional decal but with a clear cover film. The film is used to position the rivets and I applied so Mr Mark softer to help them adhere. AIR 61 Aug- Sept 2015_AFV/26 Jan/Feb 06 08/07/2015 15:49 Page 22

23 Above A sponge was used to get an random application of paint on top of the aluminium to start to dull down the finish. Getting Shiny I used the AK Interactive Xtreme Metal Aluminium straight from the bottle having first given it a good shake. It sprayed easily and covered very well. It behaved like a denser Alclad and dried quickly like Alclad too but gave me much better coverage. As you can see the finish is certainly very shiny! I wanted a more worn oxidised finish so I began applying a series of pale grey acrylic and oil paint washes over the exposed bare metal areas. Masking fluid was applied to the wing roots using a sponge. AIR 61 Aug- Sept 2015_AFV/26 Jan/Feb 06 08/07/2015 15:49 Page 23