AIR Modeller - Issue 69 (2016-12 2017-01).pdf

MENGAIRMODELLERDECEMBER/JANUARY2016 DEC/JAN 2016 • £6.50 UK $15.99 www.mengafvmodeller.com 69 BIGFINMarkChisholmbuildstheRevellTornadoGR4 AIR 69 cover_Layout 1 09/11/2016 12:22 Page 1

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1 Meng AIR Modeller welcomes contributions from interested parties, but cannot accept any responsibility for unsolicited material. The contents of this publication including all articles, drawings and photographs originated by AFV Modeller ltd become the publishers copyright under copyright law. Reproduction in any form requires the written consent of the publisher. Whilst every care is taken to avoid mistakes AFV Modeller ltd. cannot be liable in any way for errors or ommissions. Meng AIR Modeller is published Bimonthly by AFV Modeller ltd Old Stables East Moor Stannington Northumberland NE61 6ES Tel: 01670 823648 Fax: 01670 820274 email: david@mengafvmodeller.com Editor and Designer: David Parker Deputy Editor: Mark Neville Sales Director: Keith Smith ISSN 2059-5964 We are now on Facebook, ‘Like’ us to follow what we are doing and follow our build projects. Best wishes from all of us at AIR Modeller 2 Fading FIAT Meng’s 1:71 FIAT G.91R wears a worn-out coat. 12 Short Sterling Part 6 Megas Tsonos continues to scratchbuild the heavy bomber in 1:48. 24 Big Fin Mark Chisholm whips Revell’s Tornado GR4 into shape. 32 Beautiful Bubbletop Part one of Andrea Vignocchi’s stunning 1:72 P-47. 40 Whitley Ways Metodi Metodiev explains how to get the best from Fly’s 1:72 kit. 48 Air Borne New releases. 56 Resin Russian HpH’s large scale ‘Lav’ by Zdenek Sebesta. SEASONS GREETINGS CONTENTS AIR 69 Dec-Jan 2016_AFV/26 Jan/Feb 06 10/11/2016 09:59 Page 1

FIAT M e n g ’s F I AT G . 9 1 g e t s a h e a v i l y w e a t h e r e d l o o k 2 AIR 69 Dec-Jan 2016_AFV/26 Jan/Feb 06 07/11/2016 16:30 Page 2

S eventy-second, braille scale, small scale, Gentlemans' scale…whatever way you word it 1:72 is pretty small to work with but still remains popular in our hobby. I do find myself asking why on occasion, and we've had many discussions here around the AIR office. There’s such a vast range of kits in larger scales now, gone are the days of scraping together pocket money and eagerly rushing to the local friendly kit stockist, be it a newsagent, toy store or hardware shop; little boxes of 1:72 kits were everywhere and affordable. Could it still be that smaller scale kits are cheaper? A great thing about modelling is that it crosses all boundaries of wealth and how much you can afford to 'waste' (my wife's words, not mine) on precious plastic, resin and photoetch essentials; it's down to the individual's skills and commitment as to how the model turns out. Could it be time and space? Larger more complex kits will take so much longer to complete, and have you seen how much space a 1:32 B- 17 takes-up? Well, whatever the reason 1:72 kits still pour onto the market and Meng have re-boxed their popular, pretty little G.91R as 'NATO Air Forces' with the option of a R1 or R3 version and Italian, Portuguese and Luftwaffe markings which covers all of the countries that the little FIAT saw active service with. If I haven't already ruffled your feathers questioning seventy-second scale, I've a confession; I don't actually build many aircraft, preferring dirty things with tracks and wheels on the workbench which is why I was drawn to this little cold-war fighter remembering some images I'd seen of retired Luftwaffe veterans sitting fading away in an outdoor museum…something I could paint like a tank and would be quick to build. m o d e l l e d b y M a r k N e v i l l e 3 AIR 69 Dec-Jan 2016_AFV/26 Jan/Feb 06 07/11/2016 16:30 Page 3

Pavla’s resin cockpit is designed for the old Revell kit. I used the Meng cockpit ‘tub’ as the side consoles had nice raised detail and I’d be assured a good fit into the fuselage.The Pavla instrument panel looked a better size with a little more detail so that was used along with the Mk.4 seat which I added emergency handles to. A few styrene details were added to the bulkhead for a little visual finesse when viewed through the canopy. An all-over black primer coat also provided contrasting shadows, important to show the detail off when viewed through the canopy. All of the detail was picked out in acrylic colours working from a few images uncovered on the ‘net. Although every switch and button isn’t strictly represented, at this size the result is a visually ‘busy’ cockpit. S i t t i n g c o m f o r t a b l y ? E a s y d o e s i t Meng's kit goes together without any really notable issues. The fit is good throughout and the design makes for a very swift build, especially as I wasn't using any of the ordnance supplied (two M64 bombs, two LAU-51 Rocket Launchers, two LAU-32 Rocket Launchers and two LAU-3 Rocket Launchers) with the exception of the drop- tanks, these were still in place on the few museum aircraft I'd gathered reference shots of from a quick Google search. So with not much more than fifty parts used the majority of time spent was making sure seams and joints were hidden (using Mr Dissolved Putty and Mr Surfacer from the Gunze / Mr Hobby range) and a little sanding with progressively fine foam sanding sticks and pads. The surface detail is very nice and design features such as single piece wings keep preparation for paint to a minimum. One area many of us find lacking a little finesse in smaller scales is the cockpit, in this case namely the seat which has the appearance of one with all of its padding and webbing stripped to a bare frame. Pavla to the rescue with their set which is designed to fit the disappointing Revell kit of some years back. An important note if you’re looking to fit the Pavla seat to this kit; around 3mm needs to be sanded off the base to avoid the top of the seat fouling the closed canopy. 4 AIR 69 Dec-Jan 2016_AFV/26 Jan/Feb 06 07/11/2016 16:30 Page 4

I found the fit of parts good enough to not require breaking open the filler. A couple of passes with Mr Dissolved putty or Mr Surfacer were all that was needed, notably in front of the windscreen, at the front wing ‘plugs’ and the rear of the front wheel-well fuselage join. The option of gun panel inserts requires some careful preparation but fitting is helped by a stepped frame which holds the position well while applying Mr Cement S. Some nose weight was required, I used some of the excellent Uschi Van Der Rosten ‘Three Green’ lead putty, so heavy and very maluable; only a piece the size of a pea was required. P a i n t i t l i k e a P a n z e r Time then for the fun to start. As the surfaces were going to be heavily weathered as in the photographs I’d gathered, the base colours weren’t too critical. I chose some Vallejo Air colours by eye from some sample sets we’d received here at AIR Modeller. The underside was airbrushed first with an approximate 50/50 mix of Faded PRU Blue and Insignia White, both from a RAF set. Vallejo Air sprays nicely straight from the bottle with a smooth finish and slight sheen. More white was added to the mix to provide highlights and fading. The grey of the upper surfaces is three parts Ocean Grey and one part of the PRU Blue. My reference images show soft and faded demarcation between the colours which was achieved with a soft paper mask. When I’d given the base grey a day to dry I masked around the green areas with Tamiya tape and applied the RLM62 Grün (from a wartime Luftwaffe set). The edges weren’t critical as I’d be blending and fading these at a later stage. Now I needed to start and fade the finishes. The green camo in the photographs has disappeared completely in places due to many years of neglect outdoors. The first step I took was with a worn 600 grade sanding stick and basically sanding through the green. Next using my base grey and an old short bristled brush, I progressively ‘scrubbed’ an almost dry brush across the surfaces, adding white also to fade the grey to a patchy appearance. Once complete I airbrushed a coat of Klear (Future) in preparation for decals. 5 AIR 69 Dec-Jan 2016_AFV/26 Jan/Feb 06 07/11/2016 16:31 Page 5

I had no issues with the decals, a coat of Klear (liquid acrylic floor protector if you don’t already know) before and after application and the use of some softening solution (Aeroscale) assured the carrier film wouldn’t show. F a d e d f l u o One of the features I really fancied replicating was the faded fluorescent orange markings on the nose and tail. The areas were masked and sprayed white followed by a few light passes with some airbrush illustration ink. I’ve had a selection of these colours for many years and they come in handy for applying tints to clear parts with their transparent properties and vivid colour. Before drying completely (they’re acrylics) I pulled and pushed the colours around with a damp brush giving the desired mottled effect. Considering I should be regarded a novice when it comes to decals it all went pretty smoothly. I found that Aeroscale softening solution worked the best on the Cartograf decals supplied in the kit, the sheet doesn’t include every tiny stencil which won’t please everyone (although I was more than happy with my decal-fobia!) The markings are of Luftwaffe Weapon School 50, the markings didn’t exactly match the numbers of my reference shots but as I wasn’t modelling one particular aircraft it was no big deal. I did notice the small cartoon pig’s head included (forward of the unit marking) allegedly applied by German crews who regarded the G.91 a swine to fly! The satin clear finish was the ideal surface for the next step of a dark wash. Normally the purpose of a wash is to enhance the panel lines and smaller details but I also used washes to create a further mottled effect and dark streaking as seen in my reference. I used black and burnt umber oil paints heavily diluted with enamel thinner. I also used the thinned oils to create some panel definition rather than an exaggerated ‘post shading’ effect applied with an airbrush. The final step involves subtle tonal work with oil paints. A brand popular with armour modellers is 502 Abteilung (named after a German heavy tank unit) who have a wide range of colours at affordable prices aimed specifically at modellers. These oils perform very well for both blending and making washes or filters. Something I’d noted in the photos of the veteran G.91s was a purple hue cast in areas of the fading grey, ‘Faded Camo Maroon’ (a dusty pink) was used along with ‘Copper Oxide Blue’ and ‘German Grey Highlight’. These were applied sparingly with an almost dry brush and blended with a soft, dry short square bristled brush. A beauty of oils is their lengthy drying allowing plenty of time to work until you’re pleased with the effects. The oils worked also to blend the markings into the paintwork with a final harmonising of the surfaces provided by a matt varnish coat once I was happy the oil colours had dried after a day or so. 6 AIR 69 Dec-Jan 2016_AFV/26 Jan/Feb 06 07/11/2016 16:31 Page 6

Wheel wells have good detail and the speed brakes can be posed as you wish. The wing gates are commendably thin and panel gaps have nice finesse. F i n a l f i t t i n g The final few jobs as usual were the landing gears, canopy and the drop tanks. Some modellers will opt to add some detail to the landing gear but all looks decent with a coat of white aluminium Vallejo Metal Colour and a dark wash. The canopy is crystal clear and a very good fit, before masking and spraying I used the teeth of a razor-saw to make an impression of rivets (as I’ve also done in selected places on the airframe). I might not build many aircraft but know that using a pva type adhesive is essential for the clear glazing parts. The base-coated fuel tanks were cemented in place and weathered with the same techniques as the rest of the model and some final detail painting was done. A nice touch was the two aftermarket landing light lenses which add some realism. I really enjoyed this quick little project, much more than I initially thought I would. This kit is a case of small but perfectly formed, It certainly greatly increased my respect for modellers working in this scale (just take-in the skillful work and time lavished on the P-47 in this issue...) and has me fired-up to do another heavily weathered aircraft, but next time definitely in 1:32 thanks! 7 AIR 69 Dec-Jan 2016_AFV/26 Jan/Feb 06 07/11/2016 16:31 Page 7

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SHORT STIRLING Seen from below, the area underneath the flight deck was additionally detailed with the control cables (nylon thread in this case) which connected the engine control levers to the Exactor engine control system. Additionally, the cables which run from the pilot’s rudder pedals towards the rear are simulated with stretched sprue. Part Six sees the completion of the construction of the cockpit and the preparation of the front of the fuselage to allow the cockpit to be installed. This is followed by the assembly of the extensive cockpit canopy and the internal LED lighting to illuminate the completed cockpit. With this complete and the canopy pre- painted attention turns to construction of the four powerplants. 12 AIR 69 Dec-Jan 2016_AFV/26 Jan/Feb 06 07/11/2016 15:14 Page 12

MEGAS TSONOS SCRATCHBUILDS THE HEAVY BOMBER IN 1:48 part six The pilot and co-pilot seats were made of thin Evergreen rod and pewter foil. The pilot’s seat was also equipped with armrests which I put in the raised position. This view from directly above illustrates the completed cabin minus sidewalls. The navigator’s seat was the last item installed before I turned my attention to the fuselage front section. I painted the seats and the seat backs and armrests in dark leather brown; the colour was chosen instead of leather black which is the correct colour as seen in the available photos, to make a difference from the gloss black frames of the seats. I glued the Sutton harnesses on them ‘borrowed’ from a spare Edward pre-painted photo-etched set. Furthermore, I attached new brass rings on top of the harnesses, enhancing their appearance. 13 AIR 69 Dec-Jan 2016_AFV/26 Jan/Feb 06 07/11/2016 15:14 Page 13

The front section (actually part of fuselage section ‘B’) was cut at its joint with section ‘A’, which has just been modelled. The interior was sprayed with Hycote primer filler spray putty for the last time, and was not only sanded but actually polished. …was masked on the outside in preparation for the application of one layer of white Milliput which when sanded, producing a surface devoid of the remaining woven fabric texture, a reminder of the fiberglass origins of the fuselage. It was thoroughly sanded smooth on the inside and… Then the windows were installed and masked. It must be noted that the windows are laser-cut 1/32” thick plexiglass panels, the blue dot seen in the photos which follow, denoting their outer side, still covered in a protective clear film. On the polished surfaces the Evergreen strips were cemented horizontally as stringers and vertically as formers. The pattern followed corresponded directly to the exterior scribing and riveting, as the windows dictated the precise location of the structure modelled. The work was continued in the lower fuselage as well and when all the visible structure has been installed… 14 AIR 69 Dec-Jan 2016_AFV/26 Jan/Feb 06 07/11/2016 15:14 Page 14

…I added some of the riveting again using the Archer Fine Transfers rivet decals to enhance the details and give a much more airframe-like look to the cockpit interior. The area was airbrushed in the aircraft interior grey-green up to the vertical bulkhead which divided the cockpit compartment from the flight engineer and wireless operator compartment. The compartment behind the bulkhead was, along with the rest of section ‘B’ of the fuselage left unpainted according to contemporary photos. At the rear end, I gave the interior a black colour so as to give an indication of depth when looking through the bulkhead door towards the flight engineers’ station. The instrument panel was the last detail to be added before the cockpit floor and the flight deck met the fuselage sidewalls. Made of thin styrene and clear acetate using the sandwich method, it was tailored so as to fit neatly in place. The instrument panel was bolted on a back frame coloured in interior grey-green, the panel itself being black and its angled (lower) sides dark grey. 15 AIR 69 Dec-Jan 2016_AFV/26 Jan/Feb 06 07/11/2016 15:14 Page 15

The amount of detailing added in the cockpit pointed towards the inclusion of miniature interior lighting. When switched on, the interior details could be easily seen through the canopy no matter how tucked away. I did not attempt scale lighting; as I simply wanted the interior to be visible. I used a brass tube to direct the wires through the fuselage to the nose. I secured the brass tube in the upper left side of the fuselage with 5-minute epoxy glue, and I glued a miniature socket (blue arrow) into which the plug of the external DC current source would be plugged in. 16 Following the floor installation, detailing of the fuselage sidewalls started in earnest. Electrical wiring was done with stretched sprue and coloured copper wire. The clamps securing the wire bundles are thin lead foil. The first aid kit is made from Milliput. The oxygen supply hose for the 2nd pilot is thin lead wire wound around a straight length of the same material, then curved to the desired shape and glued in place. Similar work was performed on the port fuselage sidewall with the most detailing being done at the left to the pilot’s seat. Left The final touches at the navigators’ station are now completed; the small white anglepoise lamp over the table and the blackout curtains and straps, were among the last details added there. Below The only items missing from an otherwise complete cockpit are the control columns and the engine control lever pedestal. I left these until last as they were too delicate to be installed before the joining of the fuselage section to the rest of the model, or before working the canopy framework… AIR 69 Dec-Jan 2016_AFV/26 Jan/Feb 06 07/11/2016 15:14 Page 16

The front section was brought as near as possible to the rest and the wires were soldered, the soldered lengths covered in heat-shrinking insulating tube. The LED lights were positioned in the front section area, and their wires were left protruding at the rear end of the front section. Of the last details to go into the sidewalls below the cockpit was the hydraulic fluid tank of the nose turret hydraulic system and the recuperator (pressure accumulator in today’s terms). Back to ‘normal’ modelling, and the mating of the front section to the fuselage was made with 5-minute epoxy glue and the aid of clamps which held together the two assemblies whilst the glue was setting. With the clamps removed the front section was found to be somewhat wider than the rest of the fuselage; I attributed this to the slight widening caused by the addition of the cockpit floor, despite the countless dry fits I made before. The front section was therefore sanded to conform with the rest of the fuselage taking with it almost the entire scribing and riveting detail which unfortunately had to be done once again. Quite disconcerting! 17 These details, along with a box containing ballast weights could be readily seen from the opened forward emergency exit. Right The nose section was cemented to its position and a coat of black colour was painted along the seam, after gluing. I did this to make sure that no internal light from the LED’s could escape from the joint, and I kept the lights switched on during the process to check. AIR 69 Dec-Jan 2016_AFV/26 Jan/Feb 06 07/11/2016 15:14 Page 17

The cockpit canopy, or ‘coupe’ (in Short Bros. terms), was based on a brass framework to be strong enough to take the model’s weight when inverted and was NOT vacformed as one might expect. The amount of detailing to be added was such that the risk of marring a vacform transparency was very likely. I minimized this risk by making 29(!) individual clear window panels (a formidable task!). So, a strip of brass was bent to the shape of the canopy topside and three vertical hoops were soldered under it. The hoops were also soldered to two horizontal lengths of brass attached directly onto the sides of the cockpit surround which was used as jig to ensure an exact fit. In the process, I accidentally snapped the Pilot’s seat off its mounts, as a keen eye will notice beneath the brass framework. It’s one of those mishaps that you have to work around. Above In this way the basic framework was constructed; the rest of the framing was made of plastic strips… …while thin styrene was also used to cover the brass strip on the canopy top. Everything was covered in Milliput and sanded smooth. 18 AIR 69 Dec-Jan 2016_AFV/26 Jan/Feb 06 07/11/2016 15:14 Page 18

As in the case of the bomb aimer’s window, the putty was used to bring the framework level with the windows surface. I continued the construction with the aft overhead panel, which contained the aeroplane trim controls, and the rear structure which concealed all the control wires. The completed and painted items are seen here prior to their installation in the cockpit. …and seen here to advantage, along with the levers and the front set of transparencies… … already in place and masked with Bare Metal foil, prior to Milliput application. The construction of the front overhead panel comprised of the slow- running cut out, and carburettor cock control levers, was made of appropriately bent styrene. The curtains are made of Milliput… Meanwhile, the control columns and the engine levers pedestal were modelled… … the pedestal in itself being a model of its own. I have to stress however that the pedestal was the subject of a number of production modifications, so I was careful not to confuse them, for example, with the Stirling Mk.IV, which was equipped with the glider cable release lever, not present on the Mk.I pedestal. One has to be careful when interpreting the contemporary photos available; captions can be misleading and the figures in the manuals must be carefully read. 19 AIR 69 Dec-Jan 2016_AFV/26 Jan/Feb 06 07/11/2016 15:14 Page 19

The overhead panel was dry fitted repeatedly because I would cement it in place after the ‘coupe’ has been glued in position. 20 In this way I could interpose the wires and LEDs for the lighting of the cockpit. I continued with the addition of the transparencies; I used CA glue, working from the front towards the rear of the canopy and… AIR 69 Dec-Jan 2016_AFV/26 Jan/Feb 06 07/11/2016 15:14 Page 20

21 …I cemented the last one whilst ventilating the cockpit with the airbrush hose (oh yes, I opened the astrodome hatch to do this!) to avoid the accumulation of CA vapours which could possibly mist the transparencies. with a coat of Surfacer and proceeded with… I removed all masking and restarted the procedure, for the last time. All transparencies were masked with masking fluid… … and airbrushed with Mr. Hobby Mr.Surfacer 500, diluted with Mr. Color Levelling Thinner; the faithful Sotar 20/20, doing the dirty work again. …Milliput as always! The windows were masked and the frames sprayed with aircraft interior grey- green; they were checked for (and found to have a lot of) blemishes, so I sealed the green colour… I sanded Mr.Surfacer #500 with fine abrasive, and painted with Xtracolor X2 Dark Earth. When dry, I carefully applied the window sealing strips in decal form, and painted the rounded edges of the windows in matt black; finally I sealed everything under a coat of Xtracolor XDFF Matt varnish. By painting the canopy at this stage, I avoided having to mask each of the 28 windows again before the painting of the model, a tedious and time-consuming task. Therefore, a single mask could be used to cover the canopy. The cockpit and nose sections took seven months to complete but in the end, the real thing was fairly accurately represented. AIR 69 Dec-Jan 2016_AFV/26 Jan/Feb 06 07/11/2016 15:14 Page 21

22 The Powerplants I saw the powerplants as a side project of the whole task. The engines in particular were modelled in the ‘free’ time between the major subassemblies. I brought them all together in this article for the reader’s convenience. I decided to built one of the very early Stirling Mk.I series Is, and the one chosen (N6004) was the sole example powered by four 1400hp. Bristol Hercules III air cooled radial engines, from the Belfast factory. Doubtless this plane was re-engined, as it was converted to Mk.III status at Sebro later in its service life. Although the differences between the engines are internal, there were quite a few external differences as regards the carburettor intakes, exhausts, and above all, the propellers. These were DeHavilland Hydromatic Type 55/9 of 13’ 6’’ diameter. Early marks as the Mk.I used needle-bladed propellers while later marks were equipped with paddle-bladed ones. Knowing of the utterly wrong propeller diameter presented in the ’Warpaint’ monograph drawings made by Mr. John Bishop, as well as the Sanger pewter ones, I converted one Tamiya Bristol Beaufighter propeller, by reshaping and enlarging its diameter to the correct 3 3/8” for 1/48, a full 3/8” larger than in drawings! With the aid of John Sagiadinos of Y.S. Masterpieces (yiannissagiadinos@gmail.com) who kindly made the resin copies, I came up with four correct propellers, only needing to be refined and painted. Likewise, I made the exhaust and copied it, as the early Stirlings (N6004 inclusive) had not yet been fitted with the ‘barbed’ exhausts which were a common sight on later machines. All the engine peripherals in resin form. Note the converted cowl flaps to open position as well as the modified cowl leading edge, and the simplified early exhaust outlet. The engines are the CMK Bristol Hercules upgrade resin set (prod. code #4193). I reworked the front side of each engine which is visible. I also modelled the exhausts which are located between the cylinders and the exhaust collector ring, 112 of them for the four engine assemblies. Strange as it may be, I have not yet come across a model or a resin upgrade set that includes these exhausts in 1:48, thereby giving a complete representation of the Bristol Hercules engine. Suitably bent styrene tube was used for the exhausts; the gaps filled with liquid Mr. Surfacer #500, applied with a small brush. The excess putty was removed with a clean brush, soaked in alcohol. I painted the engine block gloss black, the cylinders in stainless steel and I gave the exhausts a weathered appearance using a matt brownish colour and dry pastels. AIR 69 Dec-Jan 2016_AFV/26 Jan/Feb 06 07/11/2016 15:14 Page 22

I used Chemiwood high density tooling/ modelling board to model the engine nacelles. I started from 1” thick block and gradually removed the excess material with coarse sandpaper and a minitool to reach the desired shapes. In the nacelles front face, a styrene disk was glued, upon which the engine assemblies would be cemented. Each nacelle was dry fitted on its respective wing and was checked for the correct (90 degrees) angle in relation to the fuselage. Next, the distance of the nacelles front disk centre to the fuselage skin (~5 ¾”) was measured. The nacelles should be equidistant from the fuselage whilst not causing unwanted overlapping of the principal wing surface details (for example the fuel tank panel outlines). So I made a lot of dry-fitting before cementing the outer nacelles in place. The task of measuring the distances from the fuselage was made easier without the interference of the inner nacelles, this being the reason why the outer nacelles were modelled first. A small amount of Milliput filled the inevitable gaps, and the work continued with the inner nacelles. Following a coat of CA glue over the entire nacelles, two coats of Hycote were sprayed and sanded smooth to a high degree of gloss. The outer nacelles were made first and they were made to look identical nevertheless handed to cater for the wings’ angle of sweep. 23 The project continues in the next issue AIR 69 Dec-Jan 2016_AFV/26 Jan/Feb 06 07/11/2016 15:14 Page 23